ORIGINAL ARTICLES. SPORT Training program in the lowlands for amateur mountaineers for climbing to the peaks

.2023.9.3.91-103 Abstract Purpose: We develop and experimentally substantiate the use of a method of training amateur mountaineers in conditions of flat terrain to high altitude and ascent to the top. Material and methods: The study involved 12 men (age 20-25 years old) who have 1 year experience in mountaineering. The participants were divided into two groups, control and experimental, 6 people each. The study was conducted from March to August 2021. The intervention program lasted 9 weeks. All participants gave their consent to participate in the experiment. Methods: Physical fitness was measured by the 20 squat test. The resting heart rate was measured while standing. Psychophysiological condition was determined with the "International Reaction Test", the test shows the reaction time to a stimulus. Altitude was chosen as an influence factor on reaction time and HR in different test modes: initial testing (plain), testing at an altitude of 1900 m and at an altitude of 3 200 m. Results: The altitude factor had no significant effect on preload reaction time in both control and experimental groups (p>0.05). However, a significant influence of altitude on post-load reaction time was found in both control and experimental groups (p<0,05). HR was significantly influenced by altitude in both control and experimental groups. However, the effect is stronger in the control group than in the experimental group. Conclusions. The method increasing tolerance in hypoxia has a positive effect on the organism recovery after the stress in conditions of natural hypoxia, observed during climbing in the mountains.


Introduction
Mountain peaks have attracted people since ancient times.The desire to ascent the top of a mountain, overcoming all difficulties and testing one's strength and capabilities has encouraged people to take up mountaineering.Nowadays mountaineering remains one of the most popular sports although it is not included in the program of the Olympic Games.Athletic training in mountaineering is multifaceted, involving physical, tactical, technical and psychological preparation [1,2].In addition to excellent physical training, a mountaineer must have technical skills of working with rope and equipment brought to perfection, in conditions of overwork and hypoxia an athlete must be able to make tactical decisions, on which his life and the lives of his comrades depend.Preparing for ascent the climber must study climatic features of the region, because human performance depends on weather conditions both bodily and cognitively [3,4].Staying in the mountains is accompanied by many risks that are a threat to the life and health of the athletes.The danger of avalanches and rockfalls, being in the mountains, climbers must follow all safety rules, always use a helmet when climbing, correctly organize safety precautions, especially on the ascent, because the most common injuries occur as a result of a fall [5,6,7].In case of an accident a climber has to organize rescue operations and provide first aid to the injured [8].These skills are practiced in stages.The skills and knowledge are acquired over many years.
Preparation for ascent begins long before the expedition.Being in the mountains has a special effect on human body.A person gets mountain sickness, which is manifested by symptoms such as drowsiness, intermittent breathing, lethargy, and in severe cases it may be fatal [9,10].Many climbers live permanently in flat terrain and training requires a special approach with the use of modern techniques and equipment [11,12,13].After analysing scientific researches, we found that many researches focus on the analysis and implementation of techniques for the training of elite athletes who have a high level of training [14].Also, techniques using expensive equipment that are available in medical centers, such as barometric chambers, have been proposed [15,16].Studies have been developed on training in mountains and different altitudes [16] and psychological resilience in high altitude [17].However, the studied literature does not cover the topic of training amateur mountaineers in flat terrain.There is also a peculiarity of training novice mountaineers, which is based on their individual mode of living and studying.Modern recommendations on preparation for ascents are based on running training in an aerobic regime.But this has disadvantages, which are manifested during the stay at altitude in the mountains.Therefore the necessity of development of program of training of amateur mountaineers in conditions of lowland area with use of available means and methods has come up.

Purpose:
The purpose of our study is to develop and experimentally substantiate the use of the author's methodology for preparing for high mountains and climbing to the top of amateur climbers in conditions of low-altitude terrain.

Participants
The study involved 12 men (age 20-25 years old) who have 1 year of experience in mountaineering and ascent Hoverla Mount (2061 m) (the highest mountain of Ukraine).The participants were divided into two groups, control and experimental, 6 people each.All participants gave their consent to participate in the experiment.

Procedure
The study was conducted between March and August 2021.At the first stage of the study all participants underwent tests of functional fitness and psychophysical state.The testing was conducted in conditions of flat terrain in the city of Kharkiv (202 m) At the second stage the methodology of alpinists' training for high altitude in conditions of flat terrain was developed and applied.At the end of the second stage the functional and psychophysiological condition of the participants of the experiment was tested again, the testing was conducted in the city of Kharkiv (202 m).At the third stage, the participants of the experiment made an ascent to the Kazbek peak (5033m), the Caucasus Mountain range.At this stage two tests were conducted, the first test was conducted at an altitude of 1900 m above sea level at the first base camp and the second test was conducted at the second base camp at an altitude of Health, sport, rehabilitation Health, sport, rehabilitation Здоров'я, спорт, реабілітація Здоров'я, спорт, реабілітація Здоровье, спорт, реабилитация Здоровье, спорт, реабилитация 2023 9(3) 94 3200 m above sea level.The test was conducted in the morning after an overnight stay at base camp.The test displayed the body's response to altitude and acclimation.

Physical measurements
Physical fitness was determined with the 20 squat test.The heart rate is measured while standing at rest.The subject performs 20 deep squats for 30 seconds and the heart rate is recorded at the end of the exercise.The HR was measured after 1 minute of rest and after 5 minutes of rest while standing.
Psychophysiological condition was determined using the "International Reaction Test", the test shows the reaction time to a stimulus.The test subject has to remove their finger from the screen when the colour of the image changes to red.The test was conducted using the mobile application for ANDROID.

Training Intervention
The author's methodology was applied in the second stage of the study for The training load was gradually increased from week 1 to week 4.In step running, the number of climbs increased from 3 to 6 times.Distance in stadium ring running increased from 1.5 to 3 km.The length of distance in cross-country running evenly increased from 6 to 10 km, which included 6 to 10 climbs.
In week 5, recovery was offered and the volume and intensity were reduced.
Subsequently, from weeks 6 to 9, the load was gradually increased.In step running, the number of climbs increased from 7 to 10 times.The distance in the stadium ring run increased from 3.5 to 5 km.
The cross-country distance has retained its length of 12 km, which includes 12 climbs.
Training days were adapted to the work week.Monday -running on the steps, Tuesday -physical training, Wednesday -running in the stadium circle, Thursday -rest, Friday -physical training, Saturdaycross-country run in the woods, Sunday -rest.
Then followed an adaptation period in the mountains at an altitude of 1900 m for one week, where athletes were hiking with a backpack for 7-10 km.
The control group trained according to a program which had 3 stages of training: retraction, basic and adaptation.The volume of training loads was identical to the experimental group, but the control group was running on the stadium ring and working on a bicycle and a treadmill.The program also included a set of exercises for general physical training.

Statistical analysis
The obtained during the tests was processed using Microsoft Excel and SPSS, 20.0.For each indicator, the arithmetic mean value х, the standard deviation S, the representativeness error m, the assessment of the probability of discrepancies between the parameters of the initial and final results according to the Student's t-criterion with the corresponding level of probability (р) were determined.The sample was tested for normality of distribution using the one-sample Kolmogorov-Smirnov's test.
Single factor analysis of variance (ANOVA) was applied to determine the effect of altitude on reaction time and HR in different test modes (before standard load, after standard load, after 1 minute of recovery, after 5 minutes of recovery).Altitude was chosen as an influence factor on reaction time and HR in the different test modes: initial testing (plain), testing at 1900 m and at 3200 m altitude.

Results
Before the experiment began, the control and experimental groups were tested for normality of the distribution, using the Kolmogorov-Smirnov test.The test showed that all samples conformed to the normal distribution (p>0.05).
Before the experiment, the control and experimental groups did not differ significantly from each other on all test indicators (Table 1).After completing the training program in flat terrain conditions, the participants were retested.According to the results of testing in the control group after the experiment, the results of the "International Test", which displays the reaction time, significantly improved.Significant differences (p˂0.05) were found in the test, which displays the reaction time before load, after load, 1 minute after recovery and 5 minutes after recovery (Table 2).
After completion of the training program, the participants in the experimental group were tested.The test results showed a significant improvement (p˂0.05) in resting HR and a significant improvement (p˂0.05) in the "Test International" after 5 minutes after recovery (Table 3).
When comparing the test results of the control and experimental groups after completing the training program in flat terrain conditions, no significant differences were observed (Table 4).
At the third stage of the experiment, climbers in the control and experimental groups climbed Mount Kazbek (5033m) of the Caucasus mountain range.At an altitude of 1900 m above sea level at Base Camp 1, after an overnight stay at this altitude, the functional and psychophysiological state of the climbers was tested.Significant differences were observed in the test indicators, reflecting the reaction time in the state (p˂0.05)(Table 5).
Participants were tested after an overnight stay at Base Camp 2 at an altitude of 3200 m.The experimental group performed significantly better in tests showing HR and reaction time before load and 5 minutes post-load recovery (p˂0.05)(Table 6).
The altitude factor was found to have no significant effect on the pre-exercise reaction time in both the control and experimental groups (p>0.05)(Table 7, 8).However, there was a significant effect of altitude on post-exercise reaction time in both control and experimental groups (p<0.05)(Table 7, 8).HR was significantly influenced by altitude in both control and experimental groups.However, in the control group this influence is stronger in comparison with the experimental group.Thus, the effect of altitude on pre-load HRR was significant at F=42.552 (p<0.001) in the control group whilst the effect of altitude on HRR was significant at F=16.786 (p<0.001) in the experimental group (Table 7, 8).The effect of altitude on post-load HR in the control group is significant at F=12.543 (p<0.001), while in the experimental group the effect is significant at a lower level of significance: F=7.061 (p<0.01)(Tables 7, 8).The most significant differences in the effect of altitude on HR between the control and experimental groups were found for HR after 1 minute and after 5 minutes of recovery.Thus, in the control group, the effect of altitude on HR measured after 1 minute of recovery was significant at F=12.158 (p<0.001) and in the experimental group at F=3.871 (p<0.05)(Tables 7, 8).The effect of altitude on HR measured after 5 min of recovery in the control group is significant at F=24.109 (p<0.001), while in the experimental group this effect is significantly less pronounced and significant at a lower level than the control group at F=6.581 (p<0.01)(Tab.

Discussion
Thus, the author's flatland methodology for improving functional ability had an effect on both reaction time and HR measured at different altitudes.However, the effect of altitude on HR was more pronounced in the control group.This is especially true for HR measured after 1 minute and after 5 minutes of recovery.From the results obtained, one can conclude that the author's method influences the adaptive capacity to altitude from the nervous and cardiovascular systems.This effect is particularly pronounced for the cardiovascular system's performance during recovery after physical exertion.We can explain this fact by the fact that the hypoxic training, which was the basis for the author's method of adaptation of mountaineers to altitude, used in the plain before the ascent, is the main component influencing the work of the cardiovascular system during the ascent to the mountain.Recovery from physical exertion is of great importance to climbers.The hypoxia that occurs with increasing altitude is due to a lack of oxygen in the air.It is known that the body's recovery from exercise is achieved by activating aerobic energy-supplying mechanisms.This requires a sufficient amount of oxygen in the inhaled air, combined with the development of the body's ability to consume the oxygen that comes with the inhaled air.We cannot influence the amount of oxygen inhaled with the air.We can, however, influence the consumption of oxygen by the body's tissues.In this respect, our technique of increasing resistance in hypoxia has a positive effect on the body's recovery from the stress of natural hypoxia, as seen when climbing mountains.
3 months and was divided into stages.The first stage lasted for 3 weeksa retraction mesocycle.This stage involved 3 training sessions per week and included a 1.5-kilometre run around the stadium ring.The second stage was the basic microcycle, which lasted 9 weeks and consisted of 9 microcycles.During the 9 weeks the volume of training loads was gradually increased.Each microcycle included 5 training days: 2 general physical training sessions of 60 minutes duration and 3 sessions including different types of running training.General physical training sessions included a set of exercises to develop back, abdominal and leg muscle strength.Running training was divided into 3 types: running on the steps of 120 steps, height of elevation 34 m; running on the stadium ring; crosscountry running (distance "figure eight" of 2400 meters includes two climbs with an elevation gain of 40 meters).

Table 3
Test results of the climbers in the experimental group (n = 6) before and after the experiment

Table 4
Test results of climbers in the control group (n = 6) and the experimental group (n = 6) after the experiment

Table 5
Test results of climbers in the control group (n = 6) and the experimental group (n = 6) at 1900 m

Table 6
Test results of climbers in the control group (n = 6) and the experimental group (n = 6) at 3200 m

Table 7
Effect of altitude on reaction time and HR in climbers in a control group (n = 6)

Table 8
Effect of altitude on reaction time and HR in climbers in the experimental group (n = 6)